Biosynthetic Fabrics

Throughout human history, wearing clothes has been an important method of protection and self-expression, differentiating humans from other wild animals. Prehistoric humans used natural fibers, including silk, cotton, wool, hemp, and linen, to dress themselves. As human civilization evolved and advanced, synthetic fabric was invented to keep up with the increasing demand for garments. 

Synthetic Fabrics

Interestingly, synthetic clothes originate from petroleum—also known as crude oil—a naturally occurring fossil fuel typically used to fuel car engines. Petroleum monomers are linked together into larger chains called polymers, and different polymers are used to make different types of fibers. This method of creating artificial polymers makes synthetic fabrics a form of plastic. 

Nylon was the first synthetic fabric ever invented, and is advertised as being silky smooth, durable, lightweight, water resistant, and easy to wash. It is commonly used in activewear and swimsuits, accounting for around 5% of global fiber production in 2021. 

Polyester is known for its durable, flexible, crease-resistant, and waterproof qualities, making it the ideal synthetic fabric for brands to use. Polyester accounts for 80% of all synthetic fiber use, and is typically used in clothing, footwear, home textiles, and industrial products. Other types of synthetic fabric include acrylic, rayon, and spandex. 

Disadvantages of Synthetic Fibers

The major issue with synthetic fabric is that it doesn’t decompose as easily compared to its natural counterpart — if not recycled, the plastic will remain on Earth for up to 200 years. The reason for the material’s low biodegradability lies in its chemical makeup — the synthetic bonds holding the polymers together are not naturally found in nature, so the microorganisms required for decomposition are unable to do their job. The plastic will only break down slowly over time, releasing microplastics in the process. This leads to a build-up of waste in landfills, the release of harmful chemicals, and harming wildlife from ingestion and entanglement. 

Decomposition isn’t the only thing that causes the release of microplastics — simply washing and drying synthetic fabric causes microscopic pieces of microplastics to break off of the material. These minuscule pieces are easily consumed and breathed into our bodies, which can escalate into breathing disorders and various forms of cancer.

Biosynthetic Fabrics

In an attempt to combat these significant issues, scientists have begun experimenting with biosynthetic fabrics, or fabrics that are either fully or partially made from biological organisms. Contrary to popular belief, not all biosynthetic fabrics are biodegradable—meaning they cannot be broken down. 

Polylactic Acid

One method of creating biosynthetics is to spin it out of polylactic acid (PLA), or a biodegradable plastic made from corn starch, sugar cane, or sugar beet pulp. The sugar found in these plant-based materials is turned into lactic acid through a process called fermentation, which is then transformed into PLA. The PLA material is heated until it melts, then it is pushed through small holes to create long threads, which produce a continuous thread when pulled out. 

Fabric made with polylactic acid has a smooth surface, high durability, and good resistance, but struggles with a low melting point and is hard to bend. This bio-based polymer has gained a lot of popularity from its use in tea bags, and researchers are pairing the material with cotton and wool to allow the product to create different forms of clothing and bags.

References

“8 Different Types of Synthetic Fabrics.” Sahni Fabs, 16 Aug. 2023, www.sahnifabrics.com/blogs/news/different-types-of-synthetic-fabrics.

circuvate. “What Are Biosynthetic Fibres and How Do They Compare to Conventional Synthetic Fibres?” Circuvate, 13 Jan. 2022, circuvate.com/blog/what-are-biosynthetic-fibres-and-how-do-they-compare-to-conventional-synthetic-fibres/.

“Commons.” Thecommons.earth, 2017, www.thecommons.earth/blog/how-bad-are-synthetic-clothes.

Suran, Melissa. “A Planet Too Rich in Fibre.” EMBO Reports, vol. 19, no. 9, 26 July 2018, https://doi.org/10.15252/embr.201846701.

“Synthetic Fiber - an Overview | ScienceDirect Topics.” Sciencedirect.com, 2017, www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/synthetic-fiber.

Textile Exchange. “Synthetics.” Textile Exchange, 2024, textileexchange.org/synthetics/.

Vodovotz, Yael. “Why Isn’t Plastic Biodegradable?” Why Isn’t Plastic Biodegradable?, 3 June 2022, news.osu.edu/why-isnt-plastic-biodegradable/.